Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Festa de Santo Antão - June 9th: The (More Than Seven) Wonders of São Jorge and The Trolling of the Bulls

These are the first Frankenvideos I've made using iMovie, so

a) that's why it's taken so long to get this blog up.
b) be kind.
c) a and b.
d) the quality sucks.

And as we of the standardized test generation all know, the answer is always C.


So, this trip to São Jorge I finally made it to the other end of the island. Twice, even! The first time, it was for the Festa de Santo Antão, the freguesia (village, I guess), just outside of Topo where my cousin Tania is from.


First off, the parade showcasing the (more than seven) Wonders of São Jorge:





Later that evening, we had a tourada. However, Azorean bullfights aren't the fancypants things you're used to seeing from Spain. The Portuguese do have something similar (touradas da praça), but I grew up watching touradas à corda, named for the fact that the bull is kept on a rope. Enjoy:


Friday, June 13, 2014

Making the best of my Friday the 13th - Calçadas in Velas

So today it was finally warm enough to go swimming! After lunch today I was dropped off down in Velas, the main town, so I could have a swim in the poça (the swimming hole, I suppose). Someone beat me to it:
Normally, I love all things purple. I love all things to do with the water. But not these guys: águas-vivas, which translates literally to living water. You might know them as jellyfish, but to me they're the trolls of the ocean, and they trolled me hard.

So I trekked back to Tia Angela's, changed out of my swimming things, and decided to make the best of things by taking a walk and snapping some pictures... only to find that my battery was dead and I didn't have the European adaptor for my charger.

Call it Friday the 13th, Mercury retrograde, or just a jinx, but never let it be said I'm a quitter... or that I go anywhere without my iPhone! Hope the quality isn't horrible. Better videos of my travels around São Jorge to come; I'm working on mastering iMovie now. Or, at the very least, becoming competent.

Behold, the calçadas, or Portuguese sidewalk mosaics, of the Vila das Velas. Calçadas are found throughout the Lusophone world, so consider this an introduction:



Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Feliz Dia de Camões! Let's get literary.

If there's such a thing as an "America Day", then it's the 4th of July. The Declaration of Independence was signed, and we told England to shove it because we were all grown up and we were going to do what we wanted. It's just the sort of thing a young country would celebrate.

Portugal, on the other hand, is old. 875, by my count. She has the oldest unchanged borders in Europe and she's had several "independence days":

  • June 24, 1128: The Battle of São Mamede: Dom Alfonso Henriques beats him mother and her lover in battle, takes over the County of Portugal
  • July 26, 1139: Dom Alfonso Henriques acclaimed King of Portugal
  • October 5, 1143: Kingdom of Castile and Leon recognizes Portugal
  • May 13, 1179: Pope Alexander III recognizes Dom Alfonso Henriques as King of Portugal
  • December 1, 1640: Portugal, which had become part of the Spanish Hapsburg empire after the death of King Sebastian I, declares independence from Spain
  • April 25, 1974: Carnation Revolution, Estado Novo dictatorship overthrown

So, instead of an independence day, Portugal's national day is celebrated on the anniversary of the death of their greatest poet, Luis de Camões. How is that not awesome? In 1572 he published Os Lusiadas, (The Lusiads, in English) an heroic epic poem in the style of Homer and especially Virgil. Check out the opening stanza and see what I mean:

As armas e os Barões assinalados
Que da Ocidental praia Lusitana
Por mares nunca de antes navegados
Passaram ainda além da Taprobana,
Em perigos e guerras esforçados
Mais do que prometia a força humana,
E entre gente remota edificaram
Novo Reino, que tanto sublimaram.

Translation by me, more literal than lyrical:

The arms and Heroes marked
That the western Lusitanian shore
By seas never before navigated
Yet passed beyond Taprobana,
Through dangers and grueling wars
More that what was promised by human strength,
And amongst remote peoples they built
A New Kingdom, a sublimation of both.

If that doesn't sound familiar, check out the opening lines of Virgil's Aeneid, translated from Latin by A.S. Kline:

I sing of arms and the man, he who, exiled by fate,
first came from the coast of Troy to Italy, and to
Lavinian shores – hurled about endlessly by land and sea,
by the will of the gods, by cruel Juno’s remorseless anger,
long suffering also in war, until he founded a city
and brought his gods to Latium: from that the Latin people
came, the lords of Alba Longa, the walls of noble Rome.
Muse, tell me the cause: how was she offended in her divinity,
how was she grieved, the Queen of Heaven, to drive a man,
noted for virtue, to endure such dangers, to face so many
trials? Can there be such anger in the minds of the gods?

The key difference between Os Lusiadas and the Aeneid is in the opening line. Aeneas writes of "arms and the man" (emphasis mine). Os Lusiadas, on the other hand, speaks of "arms and heroes". While the great Greek epics are about singular men, Os Lusiadas is the story of the Portuguese people as a whole. Their epic journey is the conquest of the seas and the founding of the Portuguese Empire, just as the Aeneid is the chronicle of Aeneas's journey and his founding of the Roman Empire. 

While Juno is Aeneas's enemy and Venus is his patroness in the Aeneid, in Os Lusiadas the divine clash is between Neptune and Venus. She advocates for the Portuguese to Jupiter, while Neptune tries to defend his dominion over the seas. Considering that the Age of Discoveries is the only thing American school children learn about the Portuguese in school, I think we all know which side Jupiter chose. 

The two epics are further paralleled by their structure. They both start in medias res. Aeneas arrives in Carthage and then tells Dido about how he got there. In Os Lusiadas, Vasco da Gama arrives on the east coast of Africa after roundig the Cape of Good Hope. There, the King of Mombas welcomes him and asks how da Gama and his crew arrived. Instead of telling his story, da Gama recounts Portugal's history, and how it led to him and his historic voyage.

The name Os Lusiadas comes from Lusitania. It was the Roman province that more or less matches Portugal's borders today, and so poetically the Portuguese still refer to themselves as Lusitanians. Luso- is the prefix used to denote a thing as being Portuguese, in the same way that Sino- is used for Chinese. For example (incoming shameless plug!) the Luso-American Education Foundation

Camões himself wasn't some poet scribbling down his musings from his ivory tower. He was a certified badass:
No, he's not winking at at you; he lost his eye fighting the Moors in Ceuta! His military service also took him to Goa, and later he was offered a position in Macau. On his way back home to Portugal, he was shipwrecked near Cambodia. According to legend, Camões let his lover drown because he was using both hands to hold the only manuscript of Os Lusiadas out of the water!

Portugal was reaching it's peak as a world power when Camões finished Os Lusiadas, which ends with a warning to King Sebastian to maintain Portugal's glory. Instead, the young, heirless, and allegedly mad king died fighting the Moors in Africa at the Battle of Alcacer Quibir, and Portugal fell into the hands of Sebastian's closest relative, Phillip of Spain. Elizabethan scholars might know him as Bloody Mary's husband. Portugal would remain a Spanish possession for eighty years, but would never return to her former glory.

The full name of today's holiday is O Dia de Portugal, Camões, e as Comunidades Portuguesas, or The Day of Portugal, Camões, and the Portuguese Communities. Ties to Portuguese diaspora are felt strongly in Portugal and vice versa. I am, after all, studying abroad this summer for a reason. This weekend there'll be a Dia de Portugal celebration at History Park in San Jose that you should check out. (http://www.diadeportugalca.org/) The SF Giants also had their first annual Portuguese Heritage Night, which I was bummed out to miss. Oh darn, this is what I get for following my heritage to its source this summer, I guess.

I'll close with some of my favorite lines from Os Lusiadas, translated this time by William Julius Mickle.

Ó grandes e gravíssimos perigos! Ó caminho de vida nunca certo: Que aonde a gente põe sua esperança, Tenha a vida tão pouca segurança! No mar tanta tormenta, e tanto dano, Tantas vezes a morte apercebida! Na terra tanta guerra, tanto engano, Tanta necessidade aborrecida! Onde pode acolher-se um fraco humano, Onde terá segura a curta vida, Que não se arme, e se indigne o Céu sereno Contra um bicho da terra tão pequeno? O piteous lot of man's uncertain state! What woes on Life's unhappy journey wait! When joyful Hope would grasp its fond desire, The long-sought transports in the grasp expire. By sea what treacherous calms, what rushing storms, And death attendant in a thousand forms! By land what strife, what plots of secret guile, How many a wound from many a treacherous smile! O where shall man escape his numerous foes, And rest his weary head in safe repose!





Friday, June 6, 2014

Fajã do Ouvidor


Yesterday I went with Tia Angela and my Soares cousins to the Fajã do Ouvidor. What's a fajã, you ask? Well, it's a geological formation found almost exclusively on São Jorge. I'm an amateur geologist thanks to nerding out in and remembering way too much of Dr. Lopez's Physical Geology class at West Valley, so I'm working on some posts about Azorean (and maybe even Portuguese?) geology in the coming days. This blog is going to be fun and (eventually) educational, too!

I went to Santa Cruz last Thursday and bid the Pacific goodbye as part of my plan to touch two oceans in the space of one week.


However, when I got to the fajã, the Atlantic was a bit... moody.


Walking down to the poça (I guess in English you'd call it a swimming hole), it was a little bit brisk:



So much then for my two oceans, one week plan. I think I got enough salt spray in my face making that video that I still deserve credit on a technicality. Still, there's something to be said for the romance of trekking through gorgeous black claws of basalt on a windswept day. Enjoy!




Wednesday, June 4, 2014

From Oakland to São Jorge, by the numbers

I'm too tired/jetlagged/time confuzzled to put together something terribly coherent (and I reeeeeeally want to go to sleep but still feel obligated to post something for consistency's sake), so here's a bunch of numbers detailing my trek from Oakland to São Jorge. Listicles are the cool thing these days anyway, right?


Hours waited to check luggage? One.
-Never expect large groups of Portuguese people do to anything in a timely manner.


Line jumping jerks sem vergonha nenhuma? Two.
-Yes, please jump in front of me when my section finally gets to the gate instead of getting into the back of the line like everyone else.
-Because they’re not trying to get us to board the plane back to front in an orderly fashion.
-Because the rules don’t apply to you.
-Yes, you two pretending not to understand English.
-Yes, I do understand Portuguese. 
-It's because of my baby face, isn't it?
-Tal falta de vergonha.


Countries set foot in? Three.
-Okay, we didn't get off the plane in Toronto. But I was on Canadian soil, damn it.


Empty seats in my row? One!
-Did I sprawl out on both seats and sleep like a baby? Mmmhmmm.


Hours slept? No idea, (because of pesky time zone math) but pretty much straight from after dinner service to breakfast. Speaking of which…


In-flight meals? 2.5
-Dinner
-After dinner coffee
-Breakfast
Discount on SATA ticket next year because of the 24 hour delay? 50%!
-Guess who's probably coming back next year as a graduation present to herself?


Flights taken? Two.
Oakland to Terceira (w/ the aforementioned pitstop in Toronto)
Terceira to Sao Jorge

Hours in the air? Twelve-ish.
-OAK->TOR? 7ish
-TOR->TER? 5ish
-TER->SJZ? .5ish


Airports with free wifi? Three!
-OAK
-TER
-SJZ
-Meanwhile, LAX still doesn’t. A rock in the middle of nowhere has free airport wifi, but not LAX. Because LAX sux.


Maracujas drunk today? Three!
-1 Fanta
-2 Kima
-So far, Katherine is right: Kima is better.
-But I need a bigger sample size to be sure, and I still haven’t had Sumol either. For science!


Cousins seen today? Greater than or equal to five.
-Maaaaybe that family on the flight?
-Pedro, Arnalda, and baby Inês
-Carlos and Cidalia

But the feeling of returning home? Unquantifiable. 



Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Portagee Airport Bingo

Work in progress, based on today's experiences. Anyone have any suggestions?




Wait over 
an hour to 
check your bags



“Oh, eu nao te conheci!”


Precariously
overloaded
smartecarte

Out of control
children
running around


SATA is late


Portuguese
national team
soccer jersey

Meet 5 different Marias
“Esta linha nunca acaba!”, 
or some other 
comment about the line


Meet someone 
in line that you didn’t know was going “as ilhas” too





FREE SPACE


Avozinho/a
forgets to take 
off their watch, belt, misc metal
at security


Porto, Benfica
or Sporting
soccer jersey




Someone bringing their
dog with them

Meet someone
related to you


Monday, June 2, 2014

SATA Shenanigans

According to your friendly neighborhood flight tracker, I should be in Toronto right now:

















But alas, this blog is already descending into bitchery because I am posting this blog from my vestal chamber. In California.














Obviously, things aren't going to plan. The first mistake was to believe things would, because SATA, the Azorean airline, is notoriously incompetent. Two years ago it took my parents a week to get home from the Azores because of delayed flights and bureaucratic tangles. (I'm taking the same itinerary, SATA to Boston and then Virgin to SFO, when I come home. This bodes not well for me.)

I didn't even know anything was wrong. No phone call from the agency, no email saying my flight was delayed... by 24 hours. Nope, I had to hear it from the grapevine: my cousin who works for SATA in the Azores called my Padrinho Fernandinho, who called our house to make sure I knew. Nope! Called the agency to make sure, but didn't get an explanation.

If a flight is going to be delayed 24 hours, you'd think they'd have time to warn you, right? Silly me.

To overcome the crushing anticlimax, I decided to make the best of it and have as San Jose a day as I could. In-and-Out run? Hella needed that.

Followed by afternoon adventures on Mt. Hamilton Road with Steve:



I'm going to miss you, San Jose... but it's time to part ways for now.